How to select the quality of fabric (practical version for procurement)
The core principle for selecting fabric: First, check if the parameters match the design; then, look for any surface defects; finally, feel the texture and test the internal indicators to match your downstream application (dyeing / printing / home textiles / workwear)
1. First, verify the basic specifications (the first step to avoid mismatch)
When receiving the sample, confirm the contract/order parameters. This is the foundation:
Composition: Pure cotton, T/C cotton, CVC, 100% polyester, human cotton, etc. In necessary cases, burn the yarn to identify (cotton burns to ashes, polyester melts into hard round beads)
Thread count + density: For example, 40S×40S 133×72. The higher the thread count, the better the quality and finer the texture; the higher the density, the thicker the fabric and less prone to stretching. Insufficient density makes the fabric prone to color bleeding and unevenness after dyeing.
Width (width of the fabric): Differentiate the effective width. Pay attention to whether the fabric edges have holes or inconsistent tightness.
Weight per square meter: The weight per square meter. For the same specification, a large weight deviation will result in uneven finished products.
Weave: Plain weave, twill weave, satin weave. Different weaves have different styles. Do not compare the twill fabric with the plain weave fabric for quality.
Key point: If the specifications do not meet the requirements, even if the appearance is good, it will not be useful. After dyeing, problems will definitely occur.
2. Observe surface defects (key points for on-site fabric inspection)
Place the sample flat under a light source (by the window or fabric inspection lamp):
✅ Good fabric: The fabric surface is flat, the warp and weft are uniform, and there are no obvious crossbars, warpskew, or unevenness.
❌ Poor defects:
Weave bars / horizontal stripes: One part is loose and the other is tight, which will cause color differences after dyeing (the most fatal)
Cotton knots, white spots, bamboo joints: Common in pure cotton fabric, especially for light-colored and printed products
Jumping patterns, broken warp, double warp and double weft, oil stains, rust spots: Oil-stained fabric may also show through in dark colors
Excessive fuzziness: It is prone to hairiness and blockage during dyeing, not suitable for fine printing
Fabric edge defects: Rolled edges, torn edges, loose edges, easy to tear during processing by the printing factory
Tips: Defects are divided into scattered small defects and continuous defects; small points can be negotiated, but crossbars and continuous warpskew must not be accepted.
3. Feel and intuitive judgment
Compare the same specification: The fabric surface is uniform in tightness, without one part tight and the other loose;
Do not simply think that the harder the better or the softer the better: Pure cotton white fabric is generally hard, which is normal after sizing; too much sizing will not be cleaned properly after desizing, and dyeing will cause color bleeding; too little sizing is prone to hairiness and weaving breakage.
Pull along the weft direction gently: Check the size difference to determine the warpskew; large warpskew will cause the cut pieces to twist.
4. Internal quality (in-depth testing, mandatory for large-scale purchases)
These defects cannot be seen with the naked eye. For bulk purchases, it is recommended to send for testing or take a small sample for testing:
Strength (weft and warp breaking strength): Low strength will cause the finished product to tear, especially for workwear and luggage base fabric
Shrinkage rate: Pure cotton fabric has a larger shrinkage rate; if used for bedding, shirts, etc., the shrinkage of the base fabric is unstable, and the size of the finished product is prone to deviation
Color fastness, uniformity: If the yarn batches are mixed in the same batch of fabric, there will be color differences in the same cylinder dyeing
Sizing rate: Uneven sizing → color bleeding, the most troublesome problem in dyeing
Warpskew: Most woven fabrics have warpskew, it is necessary to confirm whether it is within the controllable range
5. Set acceptance standards according to application (very crucial, do not blindly pursue the highest grade)
Light-colored fabric, printed fabrics: Strictly control cotton knots, white spots, weave bars, fuzziness, and require high first-class products
Dark-colored workwear, coating base fabric: Have a high tolerance for cotton knots, focus on strength, whether there is oil stains, and continuous defects
Home textile satin, four-piece set base fabric: Pay attention to uniform density, no warpskew, otherwise there will be color differences in the finished product
Knitted fabric: Focus on stable weight, no missing stitches, no crossbars, no large paths
6. Simple classification reference (industry standard)
First-class product: A small number of scattered small defects, no continuous defects, warpskew, density, and strength meet the standards, suitable for high-end orders
Second-grade product: Has many defects, a small number of short horizontal sections. Suitable for dark colors, thick styles, and low-priced single pieces for internal use.
Out-of-specification / handled fabric: Has many horizontal sections and a lot of oil stains, severe weft slant. Only suitable for low-priced and rough use. Not recommended for export orders or brand orders.
VII. Key points for avoiding purchase pitfalls
First, compare the sample, mid-sample, and full-scale samples to prevent the full-scale product from lowering the standard;
Don't just compare prices. Many low-priced fabrics have reduced density, used recycled yarn, or recycled yarns;
Try to use the same yarn batch and the same machine batch for the same order to reduce the risk of color difference;
Blanket fabric is a semi-finished product. Good blanket fabric does not necessarily mean good finished fabric. The printing and dyeing process can also affect it, but the poor foundation of the blanket fabric makes it difficult to recover after dyeing.
